• Using the x27.168 Stepper Motor with a Raspberry Pi Pico and L298N Motor Driver - The x27.168 stepper motor is a precise and reliable motor commonly used in automotive applications, particularly for gauge instrumentation such as speedometers and tachometers. Its compact size and accuracy make it an excellent choice for DIY projects that require precise movement and control. In this blog post, we will cover how to use the x27.168 stepper motor with a Raspberry Pi Pico using the Arduino IDE and an L298N motor driver. Components Needed Wiring the Components To control the x27.168 stepper motor with the Raspberry Pi Pico, you need to connect it to the L298N motor driver. The L298N allows you to drive the stepper motor with adequate power and control signals from the Pico. Here is a simplified wiring diagram: Test Code to Move the Motor Here is a basic test code to move the x27.168 stepper motor using the Raspberry Pi Pico. Ensure you have the SwitecX25 library installed in the Arduino IDE. If you have wired your controller, H-Bridge and motor correctly this code should see the motor move 200 degrees and back to 0 repeatedly like a window wiper, What cars use this motor? Quite a few:

    The x27.168 stepper motor is a precise and reliable motor commonly used in automotive applications, particularly for gauge instrumentation such as speedometers and tachometers. Its compact size and accuracy make it an excellent choice for DIY projects that require precise movement and control. In this blog post, we will cover how to use the x27.168 stepper motor with a Raspberry Pi Pico using the Arduino IDE and an L298N motor driver.

    Components Needed

    • Raspberry Pi Pico
    • x27.168 stepper motor
    • L298N motor driver
    • Jumper wires
    • Breadboard (optional)

    Wiring the Components

    To control the x27.168 stepper motor with the Raspberry Pi Pico, you need to connect it to the L298N motor driver. The L298N allows you to drive the stepper motor with adequate power and control signals from the Pico.

    1. Connect L298N to Raspberry Pi Pico:
      • Connect the IN1, IN2, IN3, and IN4 pins of the L298N to GPIO pins on the Pico (for example, GPIO 0, 1, 2, and 3).
      • Connect the GND and VCC pins of the L298N to the GND and VBUS pins of the Pico.
    2. Connect the motor (see diagram)

    Here is a simplified wiring diagram:

    Test Code to Move the Motor

    Here is a basic test code to move the x27.168 stepper motor using the Raspberry Pi Pico. Ensure you have the SwitecX25 library installed in the Arduino IDE.

    #include <SwitecX25.h>
    
    // Pin definitions for the motor
    #define MOTOR_PIN1 0
    #define MOTOR_PIN2 1
    #define MOTOR_PIN3 2
    #define MOTOR_PIN4 3
    
    // Number of steps for 315 degrees (full range)
    #define STEPS_PER_REV 945
    #define MAX_DEGREES 315
    #define TARGET_DEGREES 200
    #define STEPS_PER_DEGREE (STEPS_PER_REV / MAX_DEGREES)
    
    // Create an instance of the SwitecX25 motor
    SwitecX25 motor(STEPS_PER_REV, MOTOR_PIN1, MOTOR_PIN2, MOTOR_PIN3, MOTOR_PIN4);
    
    void setup() {
      motor.zero();        // Move the motor to its zero position
      delay(1000);         // Wait for 1 second to allow motor to zero
    }
    
    void loop() {
      // Move to 200 degrees
      int steps = TARGET_DEGREES * STEPS_PER_DEGREE;
      motor.setPosition(steps);
      while (motor.stopped == 0) {
        motor.update();
      }
      delay(1000); // Wait for 1 second
    
      // Move back to 0 degrees
      motor.setPosition(0);
      while (motor.stopped == 0) {
        motor.update();
      }
      delay(1000); // Wait for 1 second
    }

    If you have wired your controller, H-Bridge and motor correctly this code should see the motor move 200 degrees and back to 0 repeatedly like a window wiper,

    What cars use this motor? Quite a few:

    • Cadillac Escalade GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2006);
    • Chevrolet Avalanche GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2006);
    • Chevrolet Frontera (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Chevrolet Silverado GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2007);
    • Chevrolet Suburban GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2006);
    • Chevrolet Tahoe GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2006);
    • Fendt 206 (models from 2003 to 2009)
      all models including 206S, 206V, 206F;
    • Fendt 207 (models 2003 from 2009)
      all models including 207S, 207V, 207F;
    • Fendt 208 (models from 2003 to 2009)
      all models including 208S, 208V, 208F, 208P;
    • Fendt 209 (models from 2003 to 2009)
      all models including 209S, 209V, 209F, 209P;
    • Fendt Farmer 307Ci (models from 2003 to 2008);
    • Fendt Farmer 308Ci (models from 2003 to 2008);
    • Fendt Farmer 309Ci (models from 2003 to 2008);
    • GMC Sierra GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2007);
    • GMC Suburban GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2006);
    • GMC Yukon GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2006);
    • GMC Yukon XL GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2006);
    • GMC Yukon XL Denali GMT800 (models from 2003 to 2006);
    • Holden Frontera (models from 1999 to 2004);
    • Honda Passport (models from 1998 to 2002);
    • Hummer H2 (models from 2003 to 2007);
    • Hürlimann H-1200 SX (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Hürlimann H-1350 SX (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Hürlimann H-1500 SX (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Hürlimann H-1600 SX (models from 2000 to 2004);
    • Hürlimann H-1800 SX (models from 2000 to 2004);
    • Hürlimann H-2000 SX (models from 2000 to 2004);
    • Isuzu Amigo (models from 1998 to 2001);
    • Isuzu Frontier (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Isuzu MU / Wizard (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Isuzu Rodeo (models from 1998 to 2002);
    • KTM 690 Enduro (models from 2009 to 2017)
      all versions including 690 Enduro R, 690 Enduro Rally Replica;
    • KTM 690 Duke (models from 2007 to 2016);
      all versions including 690 Duke R;
    • KTM 690 SMC (models from 2008 to 2011);
    • KTM 690 SMC R (models from 2012 to 2017);
    • KTM 690 Supermoto (models from 2006 to 2012);
    • KTM 990 Adventure (models from 2009 to 2014)
      all versions including 990 Adventure ABS, 990 Adventure Dakar ABS and 990 Adventure R;
    • KTM 990 Super Duke (models from 2007 to 2013)
      all versions including 990 Super Duke R;
    • KTM 990 Supermoto (models from 2007 to 2013)
      all versions including 990 Supermoto R, Supermoto T and Supermoto T ABS;
    • Lamborghini Champion 120 (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Lamborghini Champion 135 (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Lamborghini Champion 150 (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Lamborghini Champion 160 (models from 2000 to 2004);
    • Lamborghini Champion 180 (models from 2000 to 2004);
    • Lamborghini Champion 200 (models from 2000 to 2004);
    • Lombardini Marine speedometers
      some versions;
    • Opel Frontera (models from 1998 to 2005);
    • Peugeot Geopolis 125 (modeli from 2006 to 2013);
    • Peugeot Geopolis 250 (models from 2005 to 2012);
    • Peugeot Geopolis 300 (models from 2010 to 2015);
    • Peugeot Geopolis 400 (models from 2007 to 2013);
    • Peugeot Geopolis 500 (models from 2008 to 2012);
    • Same Rubin 120 (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Same Rubin 135 (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Same Rubin 150 (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Same Rubin 160 (models from 2000 to 2004);
    • Same Rubin 180 (models from 2000 to 2004);
    • Same Rubin 200 (models from 2000 to 2004);
    • Vauxhall Frontera (models from 1998 to 2004);
    • Volkswagen Passat B3 / B4 (models from 1988 to 1997)
      some versions.

  • Introducing SimHub with Games: Harnessing the Power of Custom Serial Data - Introducing SimHub with Games: Harnessing the Power of Custom Serial Data In the world of sim racing and gaming, immersion is key. From realistic physics to detailed graphics, every element plays a crucial role in making the experience as authentic as possible. One tool that has revolutionized the way gamers and sim racers interact with their setups is SimHub. This powerful software allows users to create and customize dashboards, displays, and gauges, transforming any gaming setup into a sophisticated simulation environment. In this article, we’ll explore how to introduce SimHub into your gaming experience, with a special focus on utilizing custom serial data to send data. What is SimHub? SimHub is a versatile software that connects your PC to various devices such as Arduino boards, LEDs, and displays, allowing you to enhance your gaming setup with additional visual and tactile feedback. It’s widely used in sim racing for creating custom dashboards, RPM gauges, speedometers, and more. The software supports a range of games and simulators, making it a go-to tool for gamers looking to elevate their experience. Getting Started with SimHub Utilizing Custom Serial Data to Send Data Back to SimHub One of the standout features of SimHub is its ability to send and receive custom serial data. This feature allows you to tailor your gaming setup to your specific needs, creating a more personalized and immersive experience. Here’s how to get started with custom serial data, focusing on sending data back to SimHub: Step 1: Set Up Your Arduino Step 2: Configure SimHub to send data. If you click on edit and select “use Ncalc” down the bottom right there is an add property button. Try and use this while in a game as the data is provided live. Add your selection to the update message screen. In my example I have just chosen to display the rev counts. You can use functions to format the data. In this case the revs are shown in multiple decimal points. Using the a built in function I reduce this to a whole number and add a new line to make it easier to read. ''+round([Rpms],0)+'\n' Make sure you chose “log incoming data” under the serial options. Depending on the size of your screen you may not see the terminal that is echoing back the data sent from Simhub, there is a slider on the side and you might need to scroll down slightly. If your serial port selected properly along with your baud rate, your Arduino is connected and you can see data below the update message the Incoming serial data should match that which is sent out of Simhub. This proves to us the data is being sent out of Simhub the Arduino is receiving it, interpreting it and sending it back to Simhub! That in itself is not entirely helpful, but it does prove that the two are talking and we move on to interfacing with the real world. If you are not seeing any data come back from the Arduino make sure you have selected the correct port and baud rate in Simhub. Make sure no other programs are trying to access the serial port (Cura is good at this) and the terminal in the Arduino IDE is closed. Only one program can talk to the Arduino at once. Benefits of Using Custom Serial Data with SimHub Conclusion SimHub, combined with custom serial data, offers endless possibilities for enhancing your gaming experience. Whether you’re a sim racer looking to build a custom dashboard or a gamer wanting to add unique feedback mechanisms, SimHub provides the tools and flexibility to make it happen. With a bit of creativity and some basic hardware knowledge, you can transform your gaming setup into a fully immersive simulation environment. Stay tuned for our next article, where we’ll cover how to attach a motor to your setup and control it using SimHub. Happy gaming!

    Introducing SimHub with Games: Harnessing the Power of Custom Serial Data

    In the world of sim racing and gaming, immersion is key. From realistic physics to detailed graphics, every element plays a crucial role in making the experience as authentic as possible. One tool that has revolutionized the way gamers and sim racers interact with their setups is SimHub. This powerful software allows users to create and customize dashboards, displays, and gauges, transforming any gaming setup into a sophisticated simulation environment. In this article, we’ll explore how to introduce SimHub into your gaming experience, with a special focus on utilizing custom serial data to send data.

    What is SimHub?

    SimHub is a versatile software that connects your PC to various devices such as Arduino boards, LEDs, and displays, allowing you to enhance your gaming setup with additional visual and tactile feedback. It’s widely used in sim racing for creating custom dashboards, RPM gauges, speedometers, and more. The software supports a range of games and simulators, making it a go-to tool for gamers looking to elevate their experience.

    Getting Started with SimHub

    1. Download and Install SimHub: The first step is to download SimHub from its official website and install it on your PC. The installation process is straightforward, and the software is user-friendly, even for beginners.
    2. Connect Your Hardware: Depending on what you want to achieve, you might need different types of hardware. Common setups include Arduino boards, LEDs, displays, and even force feedback systems. For our focus on custom serial data, an Arduino board is a great starting point.
    3. Configure SimHub: Open SimHub and navigate to the settings menu. Here, you can configure the software to recognize and communicate with your connected hardware. SimHub supports various protocols and connection types, making it easy to integrate with your setup.

    Utilizing Custom Serial Data to Send Data Back to SimHub

    One of the standout features of SimHub is its ability to send and receive custom serial data. This feature allows you to tailor your gaming setup to your specific needs, creating a more personalized and immersive experience. Here’s how to get started with custom serial data, focusing on sending data back to SimHub:

    Step 1: Set Up Your Arduino

    1. Install the Arduino IDE: Download and install the Arduino IDE from the official Arduino website. This will allow you to program your Arduino board to communicate with SimHub.
    2. Connect Your Arduino: Connect your Arduino board to your PC using a USB cable. Ensure that the correct board and port are selected in the Arduino IDE.
    3. Write Your Sketch: Create a new sketch in the Arduino IDE. Here, you will write the code that enables your Arduino to send data back to SimHub.
    void setup() {
      Serial.begin(9600); // Initialize serial communication at 9600 baud rate
    }
    
    void loop() {
      if (Serial.available() > 0) {
        String receivedData = Serial.readStringUntil('\n'); // Read data from SimHub
        Serial.println(receivedData); // Send the received data back to SimHub
      }
    }

    Step 2: Configure SimHub to send data.

    1. Open SimHub: Go to the “Add remove features”
    2. Enable serial: Activate Custom serial devices
    3. Set Up Serial Communication: Choose “Custom serial devices” (new menu feature) Configure the serial port settings to match those of your Arduino. Ensure the baud rate and COM port are correct.
    4. Define Data output: In the “Update messages” you can define how SimHub should send serial data.

    If you click on edit and select “use Ncalc” down the bottom right there is an add property button. Try and use this while in a game as the data is provided live. Add your selection to the update message screen.

    In my example I have just chosen to display the rev counts. You can use functions to format the data. In this case the revs are shown in multiple decimal points. Using the a built in function I reduce this to a whole number and add a new line to make it easier to read.

    ''+round([Rpms],0)+'\n'

    Make sure you chose “log incoming data” under the serial options.

    Depending on the size of your screen you may not see the terminal that is echoing back the data sent from Simhub, there is a slider on the side and you might need to scroll down slightly.

    If your serial port selected properly along with your baud rate, your Arduino is connected and you can see data below the update message the Incoming serial data should match that which is sent out of Simhub.

    This proves to us the data is being sent out of Simhub the Arduino is receiving it, interpreting it and sending it back to Simhub! That in itself is not entirely helpful, but it does prove that the two are talking and we move on to interfacing with the real world.

    If you are not seeing any data come back from the Arduino make sure you have selected the correct port and baud rate in Simhub. Make sure no other programs are trying to access the serial port (Cura is good at this) and the terminal in the Arduino IDE is closed. Only one program can talk to the Arduino at once.

    Benefits of Using Custom Serial Data with SimHub

    • Customization: Tailor your setup to your exact preferences, whether it’s creating a custom dashboard, controlling LED lights, or managing a force feedback system.
    • Enhanced Immersion: Adding physical feedback devices such as gauges and displays increases immersion, making the gaming experience more realistic.
    • Expandability: With custom serial data, you can continually expand and improve your setup, integrating new devices and features as needed.

    Conclusion

    SimHub, combined with custom serial data, offers endless possibilities for enhancing your gaming experience. Whether you’re a sim racer looking to build a custom dashboard or a gamer wanting to add unique feedback mechanisms, SimHub provides the tools and flexibility to make it happen. With a bit of creativity and some basic hardware knowledge, you can transform your gaming setup into a fully immersive simulation environment. Stay tuned for our next article, where we’ll cover how to attach a motor to your setup and control it using SimHub. Happy gaming!

  • Getting a old printer motor to work - With over two decades of expertise troubleshooting printers and copiers, I’ve encountered countless machines loaded with motors. The intricacies of how these motors functioned were often straightforward: either they worked, or they didn’t. In cases where they didn’t, the solution was often to discard the malfunctioning unit; if they did, the issue lay elsewhere. Throughout this extensive period, I’ve encountered and worked with hundreds of outrunner motors. Distinguished by the unique characteristic of the motor body spinning, not just the shaft, these motors offer a unique combination of low speed and high torque. Their strength lies in their ability to efficiently maneuver challenging components such as developer tanks or drums within printers. For my latest venture, the Facehugger project, I’ve salvaged one of these outrunner motors from an HP color printer. Beyond being low-profile, it boasts ample power to bring my facehuggers to life through animation. However, one hurdle stands in the way: the peculiar pinout configuration of the motor. While the markings +24 and GND align logically, the subsequent labels—F/R (presumably for forward and reverse), ACC, DEC, and MFG—present a puzzle. Deciphering their functions isn’t straightforward. If you’ve stumbled upon this blog through a Google search, I hope you find the answers you seek. Personally, my breakthrough came from a stroke of luck during an eBay auction, as these details proved elusive elsewhere in my quest. In my test, I simply tied ACC and F/R to ground then applied PWM to the DEC using an UNO and the code below. This code uses a potentiometer to alter the PWM signal to increase and decrease the speed of the motor. MFG is not connected. If your project has a metal frame I would assume you connect this to your metal frame to reduce noise.

    With over two decades of expertise troubleshooting printers and copiers, I’ve encountered countless machines loaded with motors. The intricacies of how these motors functioned were often straightforward: either they worked, or they didn’t. In cases where they didn’t, the solution was often to discard the malfunctioning unit; if they did, the issue lay elsewhere.

    Throughout this extensive period, I’ve encountered and worked with hundreds of outrunner motors. Distinguished by the unique characteristic of the motor body spinning, not just the shaft, these motors offer a unique combination of low speed and high torque. Their strength lies in their ability to efficiently maneuver challenging components such as developer tanks or drums within printers.

    For my latest venture, the Facehugger project, I’ve salvaged one of these outrunner motors from an HP color printer. Beyond being low-profile, it boasts ample power to bring my facehuggers to life through animation.

    However, one hurdle stands in the way: the peculiar pinout configuration of the motor. While the markings +24 and GND align logically, the subsequent labels—F/R (presumably for forward and reverse), ACC, DEC, and MFG—present a puzzle. Deciphering their functions isn’t straightforward. If you’ve stumbled upon this blog through a Google search, I hope you find the answers you seek. Personally, my breakthrough came from a stroke of luck during an eBay auction, as these details proved elusive elsewhere in my quest.

    • F/R is indeed forward and reverse.
    • ACC needs to go low, this is possibly “active”. When this goes low the motor can drive.
    • DEC is the pin for your PWM (pulse width modulation) or how fast you want your motor to spin.
    • MFG is motor frame ground from what I understand.

    In my test, I simply tied ACC and F/R to ground then applied PWM to the DEC using an UNO and the code below.

    #include <TimerOne.h>
    
    const int ledPin = 9;  // PWM capable pin for LED
    
    void setup() {
      pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
    
      // Set the desired PWM frequency (in Hz)
      Timer1.initialize(1000);  // 1 kHz
      Timer1.pwm(9, 512);  // 50% duty cycle, you can adjust as needed
    }
    
    void loop() {
      // Your main code here
    }
    

    This code uses a potentiometer to alter the PWM signal to increase and decrease the speed of the motor. MFG is not connected. If your project has a metal frame I would assume you connect this to your metal frame to reduce noise.

  • Spider dropper and 3D mold eBooks - If you prefer diving into the world of making through reading, I’ve got you covered with two comprehensive eBooks. Spider Dropper Project: You may already know about the Spider Dropper guide available on Hackaday and Instructables. But if you’re hungry for a deeper dive into this project, my eBook has you covered. Whether you’re a seasoned Arduino expert or a complete beginner, this guide will help you get started and take your Spider Dropper project to the next level. Creating 3D-Printed Reusable Molds for Casting Cement: Looking to venture into the fascinating world of 3D printing and cement casting? My eBook on this subject is your ultimate resource. Even if you’re starting from scratch with no prior Fusion360 knowledge, this guide will walk you through the process step by step, helping you become proficient in no time. You can find the books here: https://www.patreon.com/jwinfield/shop or the related videos here https://youtu.be/XWuaHZWFXcw or https://youtu.be/xxUgRfLmbrA

    If you prefer diving into the world of making through reading, I’ve got you covered with two comprehensive eBooks.

    Spider Dropper Project: You may already know about the Spider Dropper guide available on Hackaday and Instructables. But if you’re hungry for a deeper dive into this project, my eBook has you covered. Whether you’re a seasoned Arduino expert or a complete beginner, this guide will help you get started and take your Spider Dropper project to the next level. Creating 3D-Printed Reusable Molds for Casting Cement: Looking to venture into the fascinating world of 3D printing and cement casting? My eBook on this subject is your ultimate resource.

    Even if you’re starting from scratch with no prior Fusion360 knowledge, this guide will walk you through the process step by step, helping you become proficient in no time. You can find the books here: https://www.patreon.com/jwinfield/shop or the related videos here https://youtu.be/XWuaHZWFXcw or https://youtu.be/xxUgRfLmbrA

  • Arduino Nano and MPU6050: A Tilt Sensing Adventure - Welcome to another exciting journey in the world of Arduino! In this blog post, we will explore how to use an Arduino Nano and an MPU6050 sensor to create a tilt sensor. We’ll discuss the hardware used, the theory of operation, and potential applications for this versatile sensor setup. Hardware Used Arduino Nano The Arduino Nano is a compact and popular microcontroller board based on the ATmega168microcontroller. It’s known for its small form factor, making it ideal for projects with limited space. MPU6050 The MPU6050 is an Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) that combines a 3-axis accelerometer and a 3-axis gyroscope in a single module. It’s commonly used for motion and orientation sensing in a variety of projects. Neopixel ring (12) Theory of Operation What’s Tilt Sensing? Tilt sensing, also known as inclination sensing, is the ability to detect the orientation or angle of an object concerning the Earth’s gravitational field. This information is invaluable in various applications, from gaming controllers to robotics and even aerospace. MPU6050: The Brains Behind the Operation The MPU6050 IMU is the heart of our tilt sensor. It works based on the following principles: Our code combines data from the accelerometer and gyroscope to compute the orientation of the sensor, enabling us to detect tilting. Theory of Operation The Arduino Nano and MPU6050 tilt sensor code is designed to detect the orientation of the sensor and indicate if it’s level or tilted. Here’s how it works: Potential Uses 1. Digital Level You can use the Arduino Nano and MPU6050 setup as a digital level for applications like construction, carpentry, or any project requiring precise leveling. 2. Gaming Controllers The MPU6050 is a fundamental component in motion-based gaming controllers. You can create your own gamepad or input device for interactive experiences. 3. Robot Stabilization Tilt sensing is crucial in robotics. Your tilt sensor can be integrated into robots to ensure stability and control in various terrains. 4. Virtual Reality (VR) Headsets In VR applications, detecting the orientation of the headset is vital for creating immersive experiences. The MPU6050 can be part of your DIY VR projects. 5. Drone Stabilization Drones rely on IMUs like the MPU6050 for accurate flight control and stability. You can build your own drone or enhance an existing one. Conclusion The Arduino Nano and MPU6050 combination provides an excellent platform for tilt sensing. Whether you’re building a digital level, gaming controller, robot, or any other project requiring orientation detection, this versatile setup can be a valuable addition to your toolbox. By understanding the theory of operation and exploring potential uses, you can unlock endless possibilities for your maker projects. So, grab your Arduino Nano and MPU6050, and start building your own tilt sensor today!

    Welcome to another exciting journey in the world of Arduino! In this blog post, we will explore how to use an Arduino Nano and an MPU6050 sensor to create a tilt sensor. We’ll discuss the hardware used, the theory of operation, and potential applications for this versatile sensor setup.

    Hardware Used

    Arduino Nano

    The Arduino Nano is a compact and popular microcontroller board based on the ATmega168microcontroller. It’s known for its small form factor, making it ideal for projects with limited space.

    MPU6050

    The MPU6050 is an Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) that combines a 3-axis accelerometer and a 3-axis gyroscope in a single module. It’s commonly used for motion and orientation sensing in a variety of projects.

    Neopixel ring (12)

    Theory of Operation

    What’s Tilt Sensing?

    Tilt sensing, also known as inclination sensing, is the ability to detect the orientation or angle of an object concerning the Earth’s gravitational field. This information is invaluable in various applications, from gaming controllers to robotics and even aerospace.

    MPU6050: The Brains Behind the Operation

    The MPU6050 IMU is the heart of our tilt sensor. It works based on the following principles:

    • Accelerometer: The accelerometer measures linear acceleration, including the force of gravity. This allows us to determine the tilt or inclination of the sensor in any direction.
    • Gyroscope: The gyroscope detects angular velocity, providing information about how fast the sensor is rotating.

    Our code combines data from the accelerometer and gyroscope to compute the orientation of the sensor, enabling us to detect tilting.

    Theory of Operation

    The Arduino Nano and MPU6050 tilt sensor code is designed to detect the orientation of the sensor and indicate if it’s level or tilted. Here’s how it works:

    • Hardware: The setup consists of an Arduino Nano and an MPU6050 sensor. The MPU6050 is an Inertial Measurement Unit (IMU) that contains a 3-axis accelerometer and a 3-axis gyroscope. This hardware combination allows us to sense both linear acceleration and angular velocity.
    • Data Fusion: The code reads data from the MPU6050, specifically the accelerometer and gyroscope data. The accelerometer provides information about the sensor’s orientation concerning gravity, while the gyroscope detects how fast the sensor is rotating.
    • Determining Tilt: The code calculates the pitch and roll angles based on the accelerometer data. These angles represent the tilt in the sensor’s two principal axes.
    • Threshold for Leveling: A threshold, defined as levelAccuracy, determines what is considered a “level” orientation. If the absolute values of both the pitch and roll angles are less than levelAccuracy, the code considers the sensor to be level.
    • LED Indicator: If the sensor is level, the code sets all LEDs to green, indicating that it’s in a level position. If the sensor is tilted beyond the threshold, the code turns off all LEDs and lights up one LED in red to show the direction in which the tilt needs to be corrected.
    • Test Sequence: At startup, the code runs a test sequence where it cycles through the LEDs in red, green, blue, and then turns them off. This is a visual indication that the sensor is initializing.

    Potential Uses

    1. Digital Level

    You can use the Arduino Nano and MPU6050 setup as a digital level for applications like construction, carpentry, or any project requiring precise leveling.

    2. Gaming Controllers

    The MPU6050 is a fundamental component in motion-based gaming controllers. You can create your own gamepad or input device for interactive experiences.

    3. Robot Stabilization

    Tilt sensing is crucial in robotics. Your tilt sensor can be integrated into robots to ensure stability and control in various terrains.

    4. Virtual Reality (VR) Headsets

    In VR applications, detecting the orientation of the headset is vital for creating immersive experiences. The MPU6050 can be part of your DIY VR projects.

    5. Drone Stabilization

    Drones rely on IMUs like the MPU6050 for accurate flight control and stability. You can build your own drone or enhance an existing one.

    Conclusion

    The Arduino Nano and MPU6050 combination provides an excellent platform for tilt sensing. Whether you’re building a digital level, gaming controller, robot, or any other project requiring orientation detection, this versatile setup can be a valuable addition to your toolbox. By understanding the theory of operation and exploring potential uses, you can unlock endless possibilities for your maker projects.

    So, grab your Arduino Nano and MPU6050, and start building your own tilt sensor today!

  • Elementor #780 - Unless at the bottom of this image there is a dollar value this item is free for you to view or use at the moment, just click on Join for free on my Patreon page https://www.patreon.com/jwinfield Then reload this page.  To view this content, you must be a member of Jason's Patreon Unlock with PatreonAlready a qualifying Patreon member? Refresh to access this content.
    Unless at the bottom of this image there is a dollar value this item is free for you to view or use at the moment, just click on Join for free on my Patreon page https://www.patreon.com/jwinfield Then reload this page.  
    To view this content, you must be a member of Jason's Patreon
    Already a qualifying Patreon member? Refresh to access this content.
  • Enhancing Your Arduino Projects with Proportional NeoPixel Lighting - Introduction In the world of Arduino-based DIY projects, lighting plays a crucial role in creating dynamic and eye-catching displays. NeoPixels, individually addressable RGB LEDs, provide a versatile and colorful solution for your projects. In this blog post, we’ll explore how to use NeoPixels with an Arduino Uno and discuss the benefits of this specific solution over using individual single-color LEDs. We’ll also delve into potential use cases for this unique NeoPixel implementation. Proportional NeoPixel Lighting: A Unique Approach The featured project in this blog post introduces a distinctive approach to NeoPixel lighting. Instead of the conventional static color or pattern display, this solution offers proportional NeoPixel lighting. In this mode, each NeoPixel on the strip responds independently and proportionally to an analog input, creating a visually appealing and customizable lighting effect. Benefits of Proportional NeoPixel Lighting 1. Dynamic Visual Feedback Unlike static single-color LEDs, proportional NeoPixel lighting responds dynamically to changes in analog input. Whether you’re monitoring environmental data, sensor readings, or user interactions, the visual feedback is immediate and engaging. 2. Customizable Color Gradients The unique feature of this solution is the ability to create color gradients. As the analog input value changes, NeoPixels transition smoothly from one color to another, allowing you to represent data or create captivating visual effects. 3. Versatile Arduino Integration The provided Arduino sketch simplifies the integration of NeoPixels into your projects. It offers three distinct modes: single-color mode, proportional color mode (each NeoPixel displays a different color based on analog input), and common proportional color mode (all NeoPixels display the same color based on analog input). Using Proportional NeoPixel Lighting with Arduino Hardware Setup To use this solution with an Arduino, you’ll need: Code Implementation The provided Arduino sketch showcases the implementation of proportional NeoPixel lighting. It’s well-documented and offers flexibility for customization based on your specific project requirements. Each mode offers unique visual effects and functionality, making it versatile for various project requirements and creative applications. The ability to switch between these modes allows you to adapt the NeoPixel lighting to suit different scenarios and purposes. Mode 0 Mode 1 Mode 2 The code below and the wiring diagram might need (free) Patreon access to view. Potential Use Cases 1. Data Visualization Use proportional NeoPixel lighting to visualize data in a captivating way. Whether you’re displaying temperature trends, stock market data, or social media metrics, the color gradients provide an intuitive representation of changing values. 2. Interactive Art Installations Incorporate this unique lighting solution into interactive art installations. Allow users to influence the lighting patterns through physical interactions, creating immersive and engaging experiences. 3. Mood Lighting Enhance your living space with mood lighting that adapts to your environment. The color transitions can mimic the time of day, respond to music beats, or create calming ambiance. Conclusion Proportional NeoPixel lighting with Arduino opens up a world of creative possibilities for your DIY projects. Its dynamic responsiveness, customizable color gradients, and versatile integration make it a valuable addition to your maker’s toolkit. The provided Arduino code offers a starting point to explore this unique NeoPixel solution, empowering you to bring your ideas to life with captivating lighting effects. So, take the leap and elevate your Arduino projects with proportional NeoPixel lighting, where your imagination is the only limit!

    Introduction

    In the world of Arduino-based DIY projects, lighting plays a crucial role in creating dynamic and eye-catching displays. NeoPixels, individually addressable RGB LEDs, provide a versatile and colorful solution for your projects. In this blog post, we’ll explore how to use NeoPixels with an Arduino Uno and discuss the benefits of this specific solution over using individual single-color LEDs. We’ll also delve into potential use cases for this unique NeoPixel implementation.

    Proportional NeoPixel Lighting: A Unique Approach

    The featured project in this blog post introduces a distinctive approach to NeoPixel lighting. Instead of the conventional static color or pattern display, this solution offers proportional NeoPixel lighting. In this mode, each NeoPixel on the strip responds independently and proportionally to an analog input, creating a visually appealing and customizable lighting effect.

    Benefits of Proportional NeoPixel Lighting

    1. Dynamic Visual Feedback

    Unlike static single-color LEDs, proportional NeoPixel lighting responds dynamically to changes in analog input. Whether you’re monitoring environmental data, sensor readings, or user interactions, the visual feedback is immediate and engaging.

    2. Customizable Color Gradients

    The unique feature of this solution is the ability to create color gradients. As the analog input value changes, NeoPixels transition smoothly from one color to another, allowing you to represent data or create captivating visual effects.

    3. Versatile Arduino Integration

    The provided Arduino sketch simplifies the integration of NeoPixels into your projects. It offers three distinct modes: single-color mode, proportional color mode (each NeoPixel displays a different color based on analog input), and common proportional color mode (all NeoPixels display the same color based on analog input).

    Using Proportional NeoPixel Lighting with Arduino

    Hardware Setup

    To use this solution with an Arduino, you’ll need:

    • An Arduino Uno
    • NeoPixel LEDs (quantity depends on your project)
    • Power supply (if required)
    • Jumper wires

    Code Implementation

    The provided Arduino sketch showcases the implementation of proportional NeoPixel lighting. It’s well-documented and offers flexibility for customization based on your specific project requirements.

    1. Single-Color Mode (Mode 0): In this mode, all NeoPixels display the same fixed color, which can be customized. It’s ideal for situations where you want a uniform and static color display. For example, you can use this mode to create a decorative lighting effect with a consistent color.
    2. Proportional Color Mode (Mode 1): In this mode, each NeoPixel responds individually and proportionally to the analog input voltage. As the analog input value changes, NeoPixels transition from one color to another, creating a dynamic color gradient. This mode is excellent for visualizing data or creating eye-catching effects that react to changing conditions.
    3. Common Proportional Color Mode (Mode 2): Mode 2 is similar to Mode 1, but with a twist. Instead of each NeoPixel displaying a different color based on analog input, all NeoPixels display the same color proportionally. This mode is useful when you want all NeoPixels to reflect the same data or environmental condition with a consistent color.

    Each mode offers unique visual effects and functionality, making it versatile for various project requirements and creative applications. The ability to switch between these modes allows you to adapt the NeoPixel lighting to suit different scenarios and purposes.


    Mode 0

    Mode 1

    Mode 2

    The code below and the wiring diagram might need (free) Patreon access to view.

    Potential Use Cases

    1. Data Visualization

    Use proportional NeoPixel lighting to visualize data in a captivating way. Whether you’re displaying temperature trends, stock market data, or social media metrics, the color gradients provide an intuitive representation of changing values.

    2. Interactive Art Installations

    Incorporate this unique lighting solution into interactive art installations. Allow users to influence the lighting patterns through physical interactions, creating immersive and engaging experiences.

    3. Mood Lighting

    Enhance your living space with mood lighting that adapts to your environment. The color transitions can mimic the time of day, respond to music beats, or create calming ambiance.

    Conclusion

    Proportional NeoPixel lighting with Arduino opens up a world of creative possibilities for your DIY projects. Its dynamic responsiveness, customizable color gradients, and versatile integration make it a valuable addition to your maker’s toolkit. The provided Arduino code offers a starting point to explore this unique NeoPixel solution, empowering you to bring your ideas to life with captivating lighting effects.

    So, take the leap and elevate your Arduino projects with proportional NeoPixel lighting, where your imagination is the only limit!

  • neopixelCode - Unless at the bottom of this image there is a dollar value this item is free for you to view or use at the moment, just click on Join for free on my Patreon page https://www.patreon.com/jwinfield Then reload this page.  To view this content, you must be a member of Jason's Patreon Unlock with PatreonAlready a qualifying Patreon member? Refresh to access this content.
    Unless at the bottom of this image there is a dollar value this item is free for you to view or use at the moment, just click on Join for free on my Patreon page https://www.patreon.com/jwinfield Then reload this page.  
    To view this content, you must be a member of Jason's Patreon
    Already a qualifying Patreon member? Refresh to access this content.
  • DIY Force feedback steering wheel using a cordless drill motor - There will be a build doc coming soon. For now please enjoy the video!

    There will be a build doc coming soon. For now please enjoy the video!

  • Pen Plotter from an inkjet printer - I transformed abandoned inkjet printers into a remarkable pen plotter, starting from scratch in Fusion360. By repurposing the scanner stepper motors and the document feeder motor, and incorporating sturdy steel rods into the machine, I successfully crafted a pen plotter with an impressive printing area of 230mmx230mm. You’ll love the flexibility it offers – you can design your own tools using the ‘hot shoe’ tool holder concept. The combination of these elements, along with meticulously crafted 3D printed components, culminates in the creation of a truly unique pen plotter. Supplies These are the parts required for this part of the build. Keep ALL the parts to the printer until the very end of the series. This project is only the assembly of the plotter itself. A following article with provide extra hardware required to drive the printer. These will be: Step 1: Collect Parts to Assemble X-axis To assemble the X-axis you will need. More details on parts here (YouTube link) Step 2: Insert Steel Rods Into X-axis Motor Holder Begin by assembling the x-axis motor holder and the two 8mm steel rods. Carefully insert the rods into the designated holes on the motor holder. Since the rod diameter and the holes in the motor holder are identical, the fit will be snug. This precise fit ensures a secure assembly with no room for movement. To assist with the insertion process, you can position the back of the motor holder on the corner of a table and gently tap the rods into place using a hammer. Video timestamp Step 3: Slide the X Axis Shuttle on to the X-axis Rods. Next, carefully slide the X shuttle onto the metal rods. Take note of the sensor flag, which is indicated in red. Ensure that the flag is facing towards the motor holder assembly. At the base of the motor holder, there is a sensor that is activated by this flag. Proper alignment of the flag is crucial for the sensor to function correctly Video timestamp Step 4: Assemble Tensioner Collect the x-axis tension holder and slide it onto the x-axis rods. Securely attach the x-axis tension spring and pulley holder onto the top of the tension holder using screws. Integrate the spring and tension pulley into the assembly, ensuring they are properly aligned and functioning smoothly Video timestamp Step 5: Add X Motor and Belt Position the stepper motor and gearbox on top of the X motor holder assembly. Take the belt, indicated in green, and thread it around the tension pulley, creating a loop. Then, wrap the belt around the motor belt drive gear. Securely fasten the motor into place using screws, ensuring a stable and secure attachment. Video timestamp Step 6: Install Home Sensors The x-motor holder conveniently houses both the Y and X homing sensors. Insert the Y sensor into the designated Y sensor keeper and securely screw it into place. Additionally, position the X home sensor at the base of the unit, ensuring proper alignment for optimal functionality. Video timestamp Step 7: This Completes the X-axis Assembly Congratulations you have finished the assembly of the x-axis! Make sure the shuttle moves freely along the shafts. Video timestamp Step 8: Collect Parts to Assemble X-Axis 5 More Images To assemble the Y-axis you will need. Step 9: Insert Y Rods Into Y Tension Holder Insert the 6mm rods into the tension holder. It doesn’t matter which end goes into the holder. One end has a slot for a circlip but this has no effect on the operation. Video timestamp Step 10: Y Tension Assembly Screw the tension spring holder onto the Y tension holder. Add the spring and tension pully. Video timestamp Step 11: Install Y Shuttle Install the Y shuttle on the Y rods. Take note of the homing flag (shown in red). Make sure the shuttle moves freely along the Y rods. Video timestamp Step 12: Attach Y-motor Holder Slide the Y-rods into the Y motor holder. Only partially push them in, for now, we need a gap here to put the X-axis belt in the next stage. Video timestamp Step 13: Marriage of X and Y Axis To assemble the Y-axis motor holder, attach it to the X-axis shuttle by aligning the corresponding holes. It’s important to note (as shown in the picture) that the red screw should be a short screw. Using a long screw can result in it inadvertently screwing into the X-axis steel rod, obstructing movement and potentially causing damage to the rod. Video timestamp Step 14: Install Belts Into Shuttles Thread the belt through the serrations in the Y-Axis motor holder, ensuring a snug fit. Although it may be a tight fit, carefully guide the belt through the serrations. Repeat the same process for the Y-Axis shuttle, feeding the belt through the corresponding serrations. In the images, the belt is represented by the color green to aid in visualization. Video timestamp Step 15: Install Y-Axis Belt Take one end of the belt and wrap it around the y-axis pulley. Then, guide the other end around the motor drive pulley and ensure it is properly aligned. Proceed to screw the motor into place securely. It’s important to note that the motor assembly is upside down compared to the x-axis configuration. Video timestamp Step 16: Both Axis Complete! This concludes the construction of the X and Y axis! Turn the motor on each axis to make sure the move each shuttle freely. Step 17: Assemble Tool Head You have the flexibility to create your own tool head for the pen plotter, and it’s straightforward to attach your custom design to the Y-axis shuttle. In my design, I utilized the stepper motor from the printer’s document handler. This choice was made to ensure that all the parts used (excluding the 3D printed components) are sourced from the provided printers. It’s worth noting that while it is common to use servos to activate the pen, they tend to burn out over time. By using a stepper motor, I aimed to achieve a more reliable mechanism. To simplify the explanation, I have color-coded the gears in the picture. When attaching the motor, make sure to screw it in with the plug pointing in the direction depicted in the picture. The screws should be inserted from the front side, and you should have a few machine screws with captured washers at your disposal. To finish off slide one more sensor across the top of the tool. This is for Z-axis homing. Video timestamp Step 18: Attach to a Base Board Now that the machine is fully assembled, the next step is to securely attach it to a flat and sturdy piece of wood. Place the unit on the wood and carefully mark out the hole positions provided on the X-axis motor holder and tensioner holder. Use a drill with a 2mm bit to create holes in each of the marked-out locations. Finally, fasten the pen plotter onto the designated location by screwing it firmly into place. Video timestamp Step 19: Conclusion Congratulations on completing the assembly! If you are already familiar with GRBL, configuring the software side of things should be relatively straightforward for you. However, if you are new to it, you’re in luck because I can guide you through the process in my next tutorial on installing and configuring GRBL you can find this here.

    I transformed abandoned inkjet printers into a remarkable pen plotter, starting from scratch in Fusion360. By repurposing the scanner stepper motors and the document feeder motor, and incorporating sturdy steel rods into the machine, I successfully crafted a pen plotter with an impressive printing area of 230mmx230mm. You’ll love the flexibility it offers – you can design your own tools using the ‘hot shoe’ tool holder concept. The combination of these elements, along with meticulously crafted 3D printed components, culminates in the creation of a truly unique pen plotter.

    Supplies

    These are the parts required for this part of the build. Keep ALL the parts to the printer until the very end of the series.

    • 2 x MFC-290C. This is the printer I used but I see even modern Brother printers use the same scanner assembly.
    • 3D printed parts using the STLs provided.
    • A solid piece of flat wood approx 500x500mm

    This project is only the assembly of the plotter itself. A following article with provide extra hardware required to drive the printer. These will be:

    • Arduino UNO
    • Arduino CNC shield
    • Laptop power supply

    Step 1: Collect Parts to Assemble X-axis


    To assemble the X-axis you will need.

    • Toothed belt
    • Stepper motor and bracket
    • 2 x sensors
    • 1 tension roller and spring
    • 2 x 8mm steel rods
    • x-axis shuttle
    • x-axis tension holder
    • x-axis tension roller holder
    • y-axis home sensor keeper
    • x-axis motor holder

    More details on parts here (YouTube link)

    Step 2: Insert Steel Rods Into X-axis Motor Holder

    Begin by assembling the x-axis motor holder and the two 8mm steel rods. Carefully insert the rods into the designated holes on the motor holder. Since the rod diameter and the holes in the motor holder are identical, the fit will be snug. This precise fit ensures a secure assembly with no room for movement. To assist with the insertion process, you can position the back of the motor holder on the corner of a table and gently tap the rods into place using a hammer.

    Video timestamp

    Step 3: Slide the X Axis Shuttle on to the X-axis Rods.

    Next, carefully slide the X shuttle onto the metal rods. Take note of the sensor flag, which is indicated in red. Ensure that the flag is facing towards the motor holder assembly. At the base of the motor holder, there is a sensor that is activated by this flag. Proper alignment of the flag is crucial for the sensor to function correctly

    Video timestamp

    Step 4: Assemble Tensioner

    Collect the x-axis tension holder and slide it onto the x-axis rods. Securely attach the x-axis tension spring and pulley holder onto the top of the tension holder using screws. Integrate the spring and tension pulley into the assembly, ensuring they are properly aligned and functioning smoothly

    Video timestamp

    Step 5: Add X Motor and Belt

    Position the stepper motor and gearbox on top of the X motor holder assembly. Take the belt, indicated in green, and thread it around the tension pulley, creating a loop. Then, wrap the belt around the motor belt drive gear. Securely fasten the motor into place using screws, ensuring a stable and secure attachment.

    Video timestamp

    Step 6: Install Home Sensors

    The x-motor holder conveniently houses both the Y and X homing sensors. Insert the Y sensor into the designated Y sensor keeper and securely screw it into place. Additionally, position the X home sensor at the base of the unit, ensuring proper alignment for optimal functionality.

    Video timestamp

    Step 7: This Completes the X-axis Assembly

    Congratulations you have finished the assembly of the x-axis! Make sure the shuttle moves freely along the shafts.

    Video timestamp

    Step 8: Collect Parts to Assemble X-Axis

    5 More Images

    To assemble the Y-axis you will need.

    • Toothed belt
    • Stepper motor and bracket
    • 1 tension roller and spring
    • 2 x 6mm steel rods
    • y-axis shuttle
    • y-axis tension holder
    • y-axis tension roller and spring
    • y-axis motor holder

    Step 9: Insert Y Rods Into Y Tension Holder

    Insert the 6mm rods into the tension holder. It doesn’t matter which end goes into the holder. One end has a slot for a circlip but this has no effect on the operation.

    Video timestamp

    Step 10: Y Tension Assembly

    Screw the tension spring holder onto the Y tension holder. Add the spring and tension pully.

    Video timestamp

    Step 11: Install Y Shuttle

    Install the Y shuttle on the Y rods. Take note of the homing flag (shown in red). Make sure the shuttle moves freely along the Y rods.

    Video timestamp

    Step 12: Attach Y-motor Holder

    Slide the Y-rods into the Y motor holder. Only partially push them in, for now, we need a gap here to put the X-axis belt in the next stage.

    Video timestamp

    Step 13: Marriage of X and Y Axis

    Marriage of X and Y Axis
    Marriage of X and Y Axis

    To assemble the Y-axis motor holder, attach it to the X-axis shuttle by aligning the corresponding holes. It’s important to note (as shown in the picture) that the red screw should be a short screw. Using a long screw can result in it inadvertently screwing into the X-axis steel rod, obstructing movement and potentially causing damage to the rod.

    Video timestamp

    Step 14: Install Belts Into Shuttles

    Install Belts Into Shuttles
    Install Belts Into Shuttles

    Thread the belt through the serrations in the Y-Axis motor holder, ensuring a snug fit. Although it may be a tight fit, carefully guide the belt through the serrations. Repeat the same process for the Y-Axis shuttle, feeding the belt through the corresponding serrations. In the images, the belt is represented by the color green to aid in visualization.

    Video timestamp

    Step 15: Install Y-Axis Belt

    Install Y-Axis Belt

    Take one end of the belt and wrap it around the y-axis pulley. Then, guide the other end around the motor drive pulley and ensure it is properly aligned. Proceed to screw the motor into place securely. It’s important to note that the motor assembly is upside down compared to the x-axis configuration.

    Video timestamp

    Step 16: Both Axis Complete!

    Both Axis Complete!

    This concludes the construction of the X and Y axis! Turn the motor on each axis to make sure the move each shuttle freely.

    Step 17: Assemble Tool Head

    Assemble Tool Head
    Assemble Tool Head

    You have the flexibility to create your own tool head for the pen plotter, and it’s straightforward to attach your custom design to the Y-axis shuttle. In my design, I utilized the stepper motor from the printer’s document handler. This choice was made to ensure that all the parts used (excluding the 3D printed components) are sourced from the provided printers.

    It’s worth noting that while it is common to use servos to activate the pen, they tend to burn out over time. By using a stepper motor, I aimed to achieve a more reliable mechanism. To simplify the explanation, I have color-coded the gears in the picture.

    When attaching the motor, make sure to screw it in with the plug pointing in the direction depicted in the picture. The screws should be inserted from the front side, and you should have a few machine screws with captured washers at your disposal.

    • Red gear. This is the gear attached to the stepper motor. The diameter of the motor gear is bigger than the hole in the gear itself. Heat up the gear with a heat gun or similar then push the plastic gear into the stepper gear. This will create a tight fit.
    • Push the green gear on with the larger gear to the back.
    • Push on the blue gear, and the washer and finally screw this in place.
    • The yellow pen holder feeds in from the bottom.

    To finish off slide one more sensor across the top of the tool. This is for Z-axis homing.

    Video timestamp

    Step 18: Attach to a Base Board

    Attach to a Base Board

    Now that the machine is fully assembled, the next step is to securely attach it to a flat and sturdy piece of wood. Place the unit on the wood and carefully mark out the hole positions provided on the X-axis motor holder and tensioner holder. Use a drill with a 2mm bit to create holes in each of the marked-out locations.

    Finally, fasten the pen plotter onto the designated location by screwing it firmly into place.

    Video timestamp

    Step 19: Conclusion

    Congratulations on completing the assembly! If you are already familiar with GRBL, configuring the software side of things should be relatively straightforward for you. However, if you are new to it, you’re in luck because I can guide you through the process in my next tutorial on installing and configuring GRBL you can find this here.